Yes, you can build this panel for places with a 240V power supply. A few changes are needed to adapt the wiring and components. Adapting for a 240V power source, this control panel can be used in other places, like Europe, Australia, New Zealand, …
The grounding diagram is the same, no changes are needed, beside replacing the pump receptacles (10AMP/240V).
Make sure that the main power switch and fuse holder are rated 10AMP/240V. The main power contactor needs a 240V coil (ex Packard C230C). The same AMP/Volt meter will work on 240V.
The HLT- and Boil contactor need a 240V coil (ex Packard C230C). All other components will work on 240V.
Make sure that the selector switch is rated for 10AMP/240V.
The alarm switch and buzzer must be rated 10AMP/240V and the alarm switch led indicator must support 240V. All other components will work just fine on 240V.
The pump switch buttons must be rated 10AMP/240V and the alarm switch led indicator must support 240V. The receptacles must be replaced to fit your local plugs (rated 240V).
Dear Michael,
Greetings from an italian home brewer!
First of all congratulations for your project and thanks fo sharing your knowledge with us. I am really intrigued by the possibility of creating an herms system with a control panel on a budget. I am reading your guide and others too, watching videos and trying to understand if a project like yours is doable also by a person who knows nothing about electric circuits like myself.
The first problem I have faced is the fact that all guides refer to US electric system. Your diagrams of how wiring all the components with 3 cables (live, hearth and neutral, no 2 hot wires here haha) is very clear and thank you for the updated diagrams! I have quickly searched on the internet all the items needed for this project, and I have found pretty much everything on our amazon/ebay/local stores, but I have a big doubt about the contactors. As we have 220v here, I have found on US online shop the same contactors you use in your panel but with the correct volts needed here.
My question is: is there any way you can suggest an alternative contactor I can find here in Europe? It would save the shipping and import taxes.. And if yes, also how to wire it?
I am gathering as many information as possible to understand if I am ready to start this journey.. Thanks for any help you can give me!
Cheers!
Anubi
\\
Hi Anubi,
Happy to hear that you give that a shot in Italy. I’m actually from Austria, living outside Europe since a decade. So, somehow, we are neighbors. ?
You should be able to find a contactor in Italy, either on the web, or in electric supplies. Make sure that it can switch 2 poles and that the coil voltage is 220V.
Let me know if you have any question!
Mike
Hi Mike,
Austria is such a nice place!
I will have a look if I can find something similar. Actually I have found the same contactors you use but with the 220 voltage shipped to Italy to such a good price that I think I will go for them! I am finishing the list of the items I need, it's not too bad!
As I said, it's a long term project.. I hope I'll be able to start in a couple of months! Thank you!!
Hello Michael, I'm building your control panel over in the UK following the 240v plan. The contactor I have has fewer pins.
Would I be able to use a piggy back crimp connector on the neutral power in/power switch?
Any help would be great.
Thanks Lee.
Hi,
You can use a bigger crimp connector, this way you can fit 2 wires in it before crimping.
Hope that helps!
Hey there Micheal
I have a few questions about the diagram..... the blue and red wires that are going to PID what are the wired into is it the alarm ? Or output etc. Can I use Rex c100 PID as these are quite a bit cheeper. Also wires going to “hot” and “neutral” bus from the PIDS and contactors don’t seem to go anywhere ? Are they suppose to plugged into the looped wire where I have looped them over ?
Cheers
Hi,
I'm not sure if I understand all your questions...
Yes you could use another PID like the REX. The wiring can be different...check the manual for that.
Every connection on the BUS is connected, so the wires are going somewhere.
Please let me know if you have more questions.
Rgs
Hi Michael,
It has been a while since I have written to you. I hope you are doing all right. I'm having trouble in understanding if the contactor attached here below can be a substitute of Packard c230c you suggest in your guide. It's a 2 poles 230 v coil. My concerne Is that it doesn't have the lateral connections that I believe you use in the guide to connect the key switch on/off.. any idea?
Thank you!
Hi Anubi!
Hope you are doing good as well!
Can you share a link to this contactor, or a model number?
Thanks!
Something like this...
Thank you for your help!
Looks like A1 and A2 are the coil connections, and you have 4 connections for source and load.
Can the all 240v wiring diagram be used in the U.S. ? Guess its the blue neutral that is confusing me.I have a three wire 240v circuit,2 hots and a ground
Thanks
This is made for US / Canada: https://skrilnetz.net/how-to-build-a-brewing-control-panel-herms-240v-30-amp/
This is a great build,thanks so much for posting it. I would like to build one similar but do not need pump control,their controls are on a seperate box. I have a dedicated 240V GFCI circuit to handle heat elements it has two hots and a ground.Can the " outside north america" wiring diagram be used in the U.S. if using all 240v componets ? including contactors with 240V coil ?
Thanks
